Chapter 1: The Enigmatic Dunes of Indiana

Indiana is a state filled with unexpected treasures, including the stunning sand dunes that have begun to encroach upon the parking lot, showing no signs of slowing down.

Who would have thought that Indiana housed such remarkable sand dunes?

The state boasts not only these dunes but also a lost wetland that once rivaled the Everglades, as well as a sprawling cave system offering boat tours through the longest underground river in America. Today, we turn our attention to the dunes and their influence on the nearby ecosystem.

Nestled on the southern shore of Lake Michigan lies Mount Baldy, a prominent feature of the Indiana Dunes National Park. Although visitors can no longer ascend this dune without a guide, it remains a breathtaking sight—one of the tallest freshwater dunes globally, rising over a hundred feet above the lake.

As these dunes start to engulf the parking area, it's important to note that Mount Baldy's closure isn't solely due to this phenomenon. Known as a "living dune," it has been shifting for years, gradually consuming trees and pushing vast amounts of sand away from the lake. In my lifetime, I've observed the relentless advance of these dunes, which once stood clear of the trees.

Historical photo of an Indiana sand dune taken by Edward Bennet in 1916 | Public Domain Image

In the past, Mount Baldy barely touched the surrounding trees. I had the opportunity to climb the dune when it was still permitted; although there are other climbable dunes in the vicinity, Mount Baldy remains my favorite.

The journey to the dune involves traversing sandy woodlands that quickly give way to a steep slope, occasionally revealing tree branches emerging from the sand—remnants of trees long buried.

Reaching the summit is a breathtaking experience, offering panoramic views of Lake Michigan, where the sunlit water appears to merge with the sky. On clear days, the silhouette of Chicago can be spotted across the lake. If you're attentive, you may even hear the dunes "singing" as the wind whistles through the grains of quartz and silica.

A glance around reveals a rich tapestry of ecosystems, including the woodlands you've just traversed, the dunes themselves, and various landscapes of prairies, swamps, bogs, and marshes.

The diversity of plant and animal life in the park is astounding. Did you know that Indiana Dunes National Park ranks eighth in plant diversity among national parks? This 20-mile stretch of dunes, nestled within an industrial city, boasts a variety of plant species that surpass even those found in Yellowstone!

To be honest, I used to think of Indiana as somewhat dull, primarily associated with endless cornfields. While I appreciate the Midwest gothic charm, I must remember that these fields are not natural, and they have replaced many of the state's original wonders.

Take, for instance, the Limberlost Swamp, which was one of the largest swamps in the U.S. Its extensive drainage in the early 20th century paved the way for an agricultural grid that erased much of Indiana's natural beauty. I often ponder what the landscape was like before such changes.

The untouched natural areas in Indiana possess a unique beauty that I struggled to articulate—only to discover it was the impressive variety of plants that made them so special. I grew up near a small remnant of the swamp, a pocket of nature that felt reminiscent of the Everglades. The fertile soil supports a range of flora, including Ohio goldenrod, eastern prickly pear cactus, and the carnivorous northern pitcher plant.

Northern Pitcher Plant | Photo by pitcherplant765567, CC BY-SA 3.0

In another time, perhaps alligators could have thrived here, were it not for the frigid winters. Thankfully, these cold months have spared me from potential reptilian encounters.

During winter, the dunes showcase unique ice formations. Shelf ice can blanket the lake's edge, creating deceptive platforms that appear stable but are anything but safe.

Another fascinating ice formation is the "ice donut." The lake's powerful waves break ice sheets into circular shapes, which, as they absorb water and refreeze, develop raised edges, resulting in these intriguing structures.

In the 2010s, I witnessed these ice donuts while visiting the Michigan City lighthouse, which stood encased in ice like a ghostly sentinel over the frozen lake. The view of the ice donut-covered lake, with snow-laden dunes in the distance, is truly a spectacle, even in winter.

These dunes are a testament to what Indiana may have looked like prior to settlement. While the plant diversity remains rich, many native animal species have vanished. Today, the coyote is the largest remaining predator, a stark contrast to the array of apex predators that once roamed the area, including wolves, cougars, black bears, and lynx.

The American bison and the now-extinct passenger pigeon once filled the skies in droves before finding refuge in the state's vast forests. Despite this loss, the Indiana Dunes still boast an impressive ranking of 14th in animal diversity among national parks.

You'll encounter a variety of wildlife, including the striking great blue heron, white-tailed deer, gray tree frogs, American toads, and the rare eastern massasauga rattlesnake!

A dirt-covered and difficult-to-identify American Toad, often confused with the Fowler's Toad. (I may be confused too; I didn't want to disturb him for a better look at his stomach, which is typically how I identify them. It's one of those two species—apologies!) | Photo by author

While it sounds idyllic, you may wonder why Mount Baldy has been closed to the public. Erosion is at the heart of the issue. Visitor traffic has damaged the tall marram grass that once stabilized the dune, and combined with strong winds, this has led to the formation of a blowout dune.

The dune shifts approximately 10 feet each year, which explains the encroaching sand on the parking lot, but this isn’t the sole reason for its closure.

In the summer of 2013, the dunes sought to expand beyond the parking lot, leading to an alarming incident where a six-year-old boy fell into a sinkhole created by this shifting landscape. Thankfully, he survived the 11-foot drop, but the mystery of how this occurred took years to unravel.

Those dead trees I mentioned earlier? They had decayed and left behind a "fungus exoskeleton," forming air pockets deep within the sand dune. This phenomenon is now identified as a decomposition chimney, prompting the park’s closure for public safety.

However, there are silver linings. Preservation and restoration efforts have been underway for over 200 years—an intriguing narrative that deserves its own spotlight. These initiatives now have the chance to flourish.

Paths have been rerouted to avoid hazardous areas, and guided tours are now the norm. The National Park Service has replanted the lost marram grass, leading to the dune's stabilization within a few years. Windbreaks have also been implemented to slow the movement of sand, and native plants are beginning to thrive once again.

If I never climb the dune again, I’m at peace with that. My priority is for the park to be preserved for generations to come. Despite centuries of farming and industrial activity, Indiana still boasts a remarkable level of plant diversity, with animal diversity closely following.

Writing this piece has deepened my appreciation for Indiana's natural beauty. The wildlife areas evoke a unique and familiar sensation that resonates with me.

Mount Baldy may continue its wanderings, but it now has the opportunity to heal. Indiana is a hidden gem of wildlife and ecological richness, and I have come to value this reality even more.

I hope this exploration has provided you with intriguing insights. Thank you for joining me on this journey!